Frequently asked questions

Get somewhere safe and lit, check every regular door you use, and think through who has a spare. If no spare is nearby, call (562) 534-1992 and tell us the address, what's locked and the lock type. Our emergency locksmith page explains how a night call works.

Yes, every time. Opening a home, car or safe starts with the tech seeing a photo ID and a document that connects you to it: a lease, a bill or a vehicle registration all count. If your wallet is inside, mention it on the phone and the check happens right after the door opens.

That's the goal. Lockouts start with methods that leave the lock, door and frame intact. Drilling comes up only when nothing else will work, and you'll hear the reason before it happens. More on house lockouts.

Yes. Tell us the brand and model if you know it, since the way in depends on the lock's design and its backup options. Once you're inside, replace the batteries and set a reminder for the next change.

Call 911 first. NHTSA's guidance for a child left alone in a vehicle is to act right away and phone 911, and to get a child in heat distress out and cooled quickly. A locksmith is the right call only when everyone is safe.

Not usually. Whoever picks up the keys may also find something with your address on it. Once you're back inside, a rekey makes the missing keys useless while keeping your current hardware, and it can be done in the same visit.

A new key gets cut and then programmed to the vehicle, so the work happens where the car is parked. Have your photo ID and the registration or title on hand. See car key replacement for the details.

A transponder key has a chip in its head that the car reads when you turn the ignition. A smart key stays in your pocket and lets you start the car with a button. Both need programming to your vehicle. Our car key guide compares them.

The metal blade matches your lock, but the chip inside the head was never programmed to your car. A vehicle with an immobilizer refuses to start without that match. Programming takes dedicated equipment, done at the car, which is why a counter copy often only opens the doors.

The tech uses purpose-built automotive entry tools rather than anything that bends the door or scrapes the paint. Keep your ID handy, plus the registration or insurance card. Learn more on our car locksmith page.

Sometimes. The fob has to match your vehicle's exact system and frequency, and some don't. Have the part number, plus your car's year, make and model, ready on the call so the tech can check compatibility first.

Rekeying replaces the pins inside the cylinder so old keys stop working, while the hardware stays on the door. A lock change replaces the hardware itself. Both lock out old keys.

You need new keys. If the existing locks work well, a rekey handles that. Replace any lock that sticks, wobbles or that you'd like to upgrade anyway. Our move-in guide walks through the decision.

Often, when the locks share a keyway. If your house has several different brands on its doors, swapping a lock or two may be the only route to one key. The tech checks each lock on site and explains what it would take.

Replace any lock that was forced or damaged, and check the strike plate and frame too. Rekey the remaining exterior locks if any keys were taken. Let police document the damage before repairs.

Yes. We install deadbolts and keypad or app-connected locks, and set up codes before leaving. See deadbolt and smart lock installation, or read our guide to deadbolt grades.

No. A rekey touches only the mechanical cylinder used as the backup. Any old keypad codes and app users stay active until you delete them or return the lock to factory settings, so do that as a separate step.

Yes. A master key system lets each person carry only the keys they need while the owner holds one key for everything. We start with a walk-through of your doors. Details on our commercial locksmith page.

Rekey the locks that key opens. If it was a master key, every lock in that group is affected. Going forward, numbered keys and a signed key log make offboarding simpler.

Not when the stamp is backed by the issuing company's name and phone number. California's B&P 6980.54 bars licensed locksmiths from copying those. A stamp with no name or number is a different case. Ordinary keys are fine; see key duplication.

Yes, after the owner shows proof the safe is theirs. Some manufacturers can also recover a combination with a notarized request, so check that first if you're not in a hurry. See safe opening.

Probably not. Plenty of keypad locks pause for a set penalty period once too many incorrect codes go in, and touching buttons during that pause can restart it. Wait it out, then try fresh batteries before calling.

Our only shop is 5150 Candlewood St, Suite 17B, Lakewood. We cover Los Angeles County, including nearby Long Beach, Downey, Bellflower, Norwalk and Cerritos. See the full service area.

Yes. The phone line, (562) 534-1992, is answered 24/7, including nights, weekends and holidays. Give us your location and describe the lock or vehicle, and the dispatcher explains the visit before a tech heads out.

It depends on the job, the lock and the vehicle, so share those details on the phone. Once on site, the tech looks at the lock, explains the work and confirms the price with you; nothing starts until you've agreed.

Your photo ID, a document showing the home, car or safe is yours, and any keys or fobs you still have. For cars, the registration or insurance card is the easiest proof. If paperwork is locked inside, mention it when you call.

Our city pages cover Lakewood and its neighbors: Signal Hill, Long Beach, Paramount, Downey, Bellflower, Norwalk, Hawaiian Gardens, Artesia and Cerritos. We also work in other Los Angeles County communities. Check our service area page or contact us if you're unsure.