Deadbolt grades explained, plus smart lock basics

Two standards you'll see on deadbolts

• ANSI/BHMA A156.36, Auxiliary Locks. Uses Grade 1, 2 and 3. BHMA says a product must meet all criteria for its grade in every test classification: operational, cycle, strength, security and finish. This standard used to be part of A156.5.
• ANSI/BHMA A156.40, Residential Deadbolts. A residential standard covering deadbolts and deadlatches, with Grades A, B and C. BHMA describes it as covering operation, durability, security and finish tests.

Certification is voluntary. BHMA says independent labs test products against the standard, and certified products are listed in its Certified Products Directory, which homeowners can search.

What the cycle numbers mean

A cycle test opens and closes the lock over and over to see how long it keeps working. A BHMA reference table lists these cycle requirements for deadlocks (the bolt type in a typical deadbolt):

These are lab test minimums, not a lifespan promise. BHMA notes that real-world results vary with installation, maintenance and environment.

Strength, security and finish

Cycle counts are only part of the picture. BHMA's summary of A156.40 lists:

• Seventeen security and strength tests.
• A strength test that loads the door against the deadbolt with 1,350 lb of force.
• A corrosion test for finishes using salt spray to ASTM B117.
• A limit of 9 in-lbf of torque to retract the latch or bolt, so it isn't hard to operate.

Schlage's homeowner guidance suggests looking for a BHMA rating on door hardware, and treats a top grade in durability as a sign the hardware will last.

Installation matters as much as the grade

A well-rated deadbolt installed badly will still fail. The weak point is often the door, the frame or the strike, not the lock body.

• The bolt should extend fully into the strike without you pushing or pulling the door.
• The strike plate should be screwed solidly into the frame behind the jamb, not just the trim.
• The door should close and latch without rubbing.
• The key cylinder and thumbturn should turn smoothly from both sides.

Smart lock basics

A smart lock adds a keypad, an app, or both. Schlage notes that connected models allow remote access through a smartphone app and can work with other smart home devices. Codes for individual household members are another common reason people switch.

Before you buy

• Check the door. Measure door thickness and the existing hole sizes; most smart deadbolts list the door preparation they fit.
• Check the grade. Many smart deadbolts list an ANSI/BHMA grade in their specs. Compare it like any other deadbolt.
• Check the backup. Know how you'll get in if the batteries die: a key cylinder, a power contact or something else, per the manual.
• Check the connection. Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Z-Wave and Zigbee models work with different hubs and apps.

After it's installed

1. Change the default programming or master code.
2. Give each person their own code so you can delete one without resetting everyone.
3. Write down the battery type and set a reminder to replace them.
4. Keep a mechanical key somewhere you can reach it without the lock.

Getting it installed

Swapping a deadbolt on an existing hole is often straightforward. New holes, a reinforced strike, a door that doesn't line up, or a smart lock that needs pairing are where a tech saves time. If the lock you have now is worn out, start with a lock change visit.

For a new deadbolt or keypad lock anywhere in our LA County service area, book a lock installation visit or call (562) 534-1992.